The Enigmatic Allure of Iso E Super: A Deep Dive into the World’s Most Captivating Perfume Molecule

Imagine a scent that whispers rather than shouts—a fragrance so subtle that it seems to become one with your skin. A scent that evokes feelings of warmth, comfort, and allure, yet remains undefinable, a ghost-like presence that lingers in the air.

This is the captivating world of Iso E Super, a fragrance molecule that has not only redefined modern perfumery but also captured the imagination of perfumers and fragrance enthusiasts worldwide.

This isn't your typical perfume story. This is the story of a molecule, a ghost-like presence in the world of fragrance.

A Happy Accident in a Lab: Iso E Super’s Unexpected Arrival

Iso E Super wasn’t born out of design; it was a classic case of “Oops, I guess we’ll call this a discovery!”

In the 1960s,  time of experimentation and innovation, scientists in F&F industry were on a mission to recreate the alluring scent of violets, a hot pursuit at the time, focusing on compounds called ionones. Little did they know they were about to stumble upon something far more intriguing.

But in 1973, chemists John B. Hall and James M. Sanders stumbled upon a compound they called “Isocyclemone E.”

One day, while cleaning their glassware with sulphuric acid, they noticed a captivating scent of violets. It turned out that the acid had transformed Isocyclemone E into something new: Iso E Super. Soon after, they refined the synthesis process and presented the world with Iso E Super (short for "ISOcyclomyrcetone Ethanone SUPERior”)

Through a mix of skill and luck, Iso E Super emerged—a strange but wonderful scent with a subtle, woody aroma. Imagine the thrill in the lab when, instead of a violet-like note, they found this whispering, woody molecule that would later become iconic.

"Iso E Super is like the shadow of a person you can't quite see," joked Geza Schoen, the rebel perfumer who later launched Escentric Molecules, featuring Iso E Super as a solo star in Molecule 01.

Schoen took a huge leap, bottling Iso E Super almost entirely alone, letting its mystique carry the fragrance. This “one-molecule wonder” sent shockwaves through the industry and reminded everyone that sometimes, simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

The Elusive Aroma of Iso E Super

Describing Iso E Super is like describing a feeling you didn’t know you had. It doesn’t just hit your nose; it wraps around you, blending with your skin’s unique chemistry. At first whiff, Iso E Super smells of warm woods, almost like cedar, but with a touch of velvety musk that’s somehow familiar yet impossible to place.

Scent-wise, Iso E Super is like a slight tease: a bit of cedar, a dash of musk, and a subtle ambergris-like warmth that makes it linger close to the skin, almost as if it’s hiding in plain sight.

"Iso E Super is like the secret ingredient every chef needs," says Dominique Ropion, perfumer behind the iconic fragrance Portrait of a Lady. "It has this uncanny ability to enhance everything around it without overpowering."

Many fans describe it as a “second skin” scent—something that’s just… you. The molecule has a strange power to go undetected until a sudden movement releases it, catching you (and those nearby) off guard.

People often say that it’s not a scent but a sensation: It’s more of a presence, as if the air itself took on a soft, luxurious quality. It’s hard to describe, even for the masters.

"Iso E Super is like the wind whispering through trees," says Alberto Morillas, a legendary perfumer behind CK One and Acqua di Giò. "It’s there, but it isn’t—an invisible cloak that makes everything around it more intriguing.”

From Background Player to Star Attraction: Iso E Super’s Rise in Perfumery

Iso E Super began as the unsung hero of the fragrance world—a subtle molecule slipping under the radar, adding a whisper of woody warmth here and a hint of velvety smoothness there.

15 years it awaits its time to be famous. And everything changed in the late ‘80s when a few bold perfumers decided to crank up its volume.

The first major act of Iso E Super rebellion happened in 1988 with the launch of Christian Dior's Fahrenheit, where perfumer Jean-Louis Sieuzac dialed up Iso E Super to a daring 25%. This was practically unheard of at the time—imagine a bassist suddenly turned lead singer :)

Iso E Super’s presence in Fahrenheit didn’t just add warmth to the composition; it transformed the entire scent landscape, introducing a woody-ambery backbone that felt fresh, powerful, and unlike anything else.

This Iso E Super surge didn’t stop there. Its rise is unstoppable now.

In 1990, just 2 years after of Iconic Fahrenheit, Lancôme’s Trésor broke new ground by using a hefty 18% of this magical molecule.

Here, perfumer Sophia Grojsman demonstrated Iso E Super's versatility by blending it seamlessly with a bouquet of apricot, rose, and peach notes, making Trésor as much a floral-oriental marvel as a woody revelation.

Trésor's elegance proved that Iso E Super could dance harmoniously with traditionally feminine notes, leaving a lasting impression of warmth and sophistication.

Then came 1992, and with it, Shiseido’s Feminite du Bois—an audacious 43% Iso E Super formulation that shattered norms about “masculine” and “feminine” scents.

Crafted by Serge Lutens, this fragrance was as much a statement piece as it was a perfume. It was a revelation: woody, sensual, and profoundly unisex, inviting a new generation to see Iso E Super as more than a supporting player.

Stop here and think, a fine fragrance formula with 43% of a single molecule..

But Iso E Super’s story wasn’t complete until 2006, when Geza Schoen introduced Escentric Molecules’ Molecule 01.

Taking minimalism to an extreme, Schoen created a fragrance made solely from Iso E Super, diluted in alcohol. Molecule 01 was an instant cult classic, celebrated by fragrance enthusiasts worldwide who were captivated by Iso E Super’s pure, almost supernatural quality—both present and yet somehow intangible.

"Wearing Molecule 01 is like having an aura rather than a perfume," said Schoen. "It’s a modern way to wear fragrance—not as a cover but as an enhancement of who you are."

Since then, Iso E Super has become the it-molecule in modern perfumery, appearing in iconic scents like Narciso Rodriguez for Her, Tom Ford’s Grey Vetiver, and Glossier’s You. It adds that characteristic “je ne sais quoi” (I dont know what) which makes these fragrances warm, textured, and, above all, unforgettable.

Today, Iso E Super isn’t just a molecule; it’s a phenomenon, proving that even in the world of fragrance, sometimes a quiet whisper can leave the loudest impression.

From Myrcene to Magic: The Science of Iso E Super

While the scent of Iso E Super may seem elusive, its creation is a precise dance of chemistry. The process starts with myrcene, a terpene found in plants like bay leaves and hops. Through a series of reactions, myrcene is transformed into the complex structure of Iso E Super.

The first step is a Diels-Alder reaction, where myrcene reacts with 3-methyl-3-penten-2-one in the presence of a catalyst. This creates a monocyclic intermediate.

Next, the intermediate undergoes an acid-catalyzed cyclization, forming the characteristic structure of Iso E Super. The result is a mixture of different isomers, each contributing to the overall aroma.

Iso E Super's Secret Family: Meet the Isomers

The term "Iso E Super" often refers to a complex mixture of isomers – molecules with the same chemical formula but different structures.

Each isomer plays a role in the overall scent, adding its unique nuances to the blend.

• Arborone (Iso E Super Plus): This particular isomer, discovered in the 1990s, stole the spotlight when scientists realised it was responsible for the majority of Iso E Super's characteristic scent. Although present in small amounts (around 5%) in the original Iso E Super mixture, Arborone is incredibly potent, boasting an odour threshold 100,000 times lower than that of the main Iso E Super molecule. However, its complex structure makes it challenging to manufacture in isolation, explaining why it's not sold separately.

• Georgywood: This isomer, developed by Givaudan, offers a similar woody-ambery character to Arborone, but with a fresh, minty twist. However, Georgywood is a captive molecule, only available to Givaudan perfumers.

• Iso Gamma: This isomer stands out for its greater polarity compared to Iso E Super. This characteristic translates to a lower tendency to accumulate in the environment and living organisms (bioaccumulate). Iso Gamma is known to possess a more vibrant and fresh aroma, with citrusy and green notes, lending an uplifting quality to fragrances. While it was initially a captive ingredient of IFF, products with high Iso Gamma content are now commercially available.

Trade Names and Market Presence

Iso E Super’s popularity is so widespread that it’s produced under various trade names by multiple manufacturers.

These include Timber Silk (IFF), with high levels of Arborone, and Sylvamber (DRT), known for its balanced woody-amber notes.

Safety and Environmental Considerations

While generally safe, Iso E Super can cause skin sensitivity in some individuals. Studies have shown it may cause minor irritation in high doses but is considered safe under IFRA guidelines.

Some environmental concerns have also been raised regarding its bioaccumulation, particularly in wildlife, prompting manufacturers to explore lower-impact isomers like Iso Gamma.

Iso E Super: The Molecule That Changed Perfumery Forever

Iso E Super has reshaped the fragrance landscape, and its legacy only continues to grow.

Its blend of mystery and subtlety offers a reminder that sometimes the most powerful scents are the ones that whisper rather than shout.

The molecule’s appeal lies in its ability to adapt to the individual, enhancing one’s unique scent rather than masking it.

Whether it’s the woody warmth, the subtle musk, or the personalized aura, Iso E Super remains a testament to how one molecule can redefine the art of fragrance creation.

"Iso E Super isn’t just a molecule," says perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. "It’s a feeling—a hint of something you can’t quite touch but can’t let go of either."

This mysterious molecule has proven that sometimes, the most intriguing stories in perfumery are those that leave just enough to the imagination.